Princess Cut Diamond Guide
Discover the modern elegance of princess cut diamonds. A contemporary square shape that offers exceptional brilliance, sharp clean lines, and excellent value for the modern couple.
What is a Princess Cut Diamond?
The princess cut is a square-shaped diamond with sharp corners and exceptional fire, featuring typically 57-76 precisely arranged facets. This modern cut was developed in the 1960s and has become the most popular fancy shape, offering a contemporary alternative to traditional round brilliants.
Princess cuts are technically known as "square modified brilliants" and are created using a technique that maximizes the use of the original rough diamond, making them both beautiful and efficient to produce.
The sharp, clean lines and perfect square proportions make princess cuts ideal for contemporary designs and those who prefer geometric aesthetics.
Why Choose a Princess Cut?
Advantages
- •Contemporary and geometric style perfect for modern tastes
- •Often better price-per-carat than round brilliants
- •Strong brilliance and fire with sharp, clean edges
- •Excellent for symmetrical designs and modern settings
- •Uses more of the rough diamond, reducing waste
Considerations
- •Sharp corners are more prone to chipping
- •May show bow-tie effect in some stones
- •Less traditional than round brilliant cut
The History and Origin of the Princess Cut
A Modern Innovation
The princess cut was developed in the 1960s and 1970s, with Arpad Nagy of London creating a precursor called the "profile cut" in 1961. The modern princess cut was later refined by Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz in 1979, perfecting the square brilliant shape we know today.
The princess cut quickly became the second most popular diamond shape after the round brilliant. Its appeal lies in combining a contemporary square silhouette with the fire and brilliance of a round diamond, while using more of the rough diamond for better value.
Best Settings for Princess Cut Diamonds
Classic Solitaire with V-Prongs
Four v-shaped prongs protect the sharp corners while showcasing the princess cut's geometric beauty
- •Corner protection
- •Maximum light exposure
- •Classic elegance
Channel Set Band
Smaller diamonds set in a channel complement the princess cut's modern aesthetic
- •Contemporary look
- •Added sparkle
- •Smooth profile
Pavé Shoulders
Micro-pavé diamonds on the band enhance the center stone's brilliance
- •Extra brilliance
- •Luxurious appearance
- •Modern design
Halo Pavé Setting
Round halo diamonds create beautiful contrast with the square center stone
- •Appears larger
- •Added sparkle
- •Vintage-modern fusion
Expert Tips & Advice
Protect the Corners
The sharp corners of a princess cut diamond are its most distinctive feature, but they are also the most vulnerable to chipping and damage. Always choose settings that offer dedicated corner protection, such as V-shaped prongs or a partial bezel that wraps around each corner. This is especially important for engagement rings worn daily, as everyday activities can put stress on exposed points. A well-designed protective setting not only safeguards the diamond but also enhances its geometric beauty, framing the square shape with precision and elegance.
Perfect Square Proportions
For the most visually appealing princess cut, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05. A ratio within this range ensures the diamond appears as a true, balanced square when viewed from above. Stones with ratios outside this window will lean toward a rectangular silhouette, which diminishes the signature geometric charm of the princess shape. When shopping, always check the grading report for exact measurements, and if possible, view the diamond in person or through high-quality imagery to confirm its proportions look crisp and symmetrical to your eye.
Prioritise Cut Quality Above All
With a princess cut diamond, the quality of the cut is the single most important factor influencing its beauty. A well-cut princess diamond will exhibit intense brilliance and fire, with light bouncing evenly across its facets to create that signature geometric sparkle. Look for stones graded 'Excellent' or 'Very Good' for symmetry and polish on the grading report. Poorly cut princess diamonds can appear dull, with uneven light distribution or dark areas that detract from the stone's appeal. Investing in superior cut quality will always deliver a more stunning and lively diamond, regardless of carat weight.
Maximize Value
One of the great advantages of the princess cut is its ability to conceal minor inclusions thanks to its brilliant faceting pattern. This means you can often select a VS2 clarity grade and still enjoy an eye-clean diamond, saving budget for other priorities like carat size or a more premium setting. Similarly, G-H colour grades offer a beautiful, near-colourless appearance at a fraction of the cost of D-E grades. By strategically balancing clarity and colour, you can maximise the overall size and visual impact of your princess cut diamond without compromising on beauty.
Which Do I Prefer?
| Feature | Princess Cut | Radiant Cut | Asscher Cut |
|---|---|---|---|
| Facet Style | Brilliant-cut facets | Brilliant-cut facets | Step-cut facets |
| Shape | Square with sharp corners | Square/rectangular with cut corners | Square with cut corners |
| Light Performance | Exceptional brilliance and fire | Brilliant sparkle with soft corners | Hall of mirrors effect |
| Appearance | Modern, geometric, bold | Versatile, brilliant, contemporary | Vintage, elegant, sophisticated |
 |  |  |
Choose Princess if: You love sharp geometric lines, bold modern style, and exceptional brilliance in a square shape.
Choose Radiant if: You want brilliant sparkle with softer, beveled corners for added durability and versatility.
Choose Asscher if: You prefer vintage elegance with a unique hall-of-mirrors effect and Art Deco sophistication.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, princess cut diamonds are typically 10-30% less expensive than round brilliants of similar quality. This price advantage exists because the princess cut uses more of the original rough diamond, resulting in less waste during the cutting process.
Princess cut diamonds offer excellent brilliance and fire, though slightly different from round brilliants. They display sharp, geometric flashes of light rather than the round's more dispersed sparkle. The 57-76 facets create exceptional light performance with a distinctly modern character.
Princess cuts are generally durable, but the sharp corners require protection. We recommend settings with v-prongs or bezels that guard these vulnerable points. With proper setting and care, princess cuts are perfectly suitable for daily wear in engagement rings.
Absolutely! Hidden halos work beautifully with princess cuts, adding subtle sparkle without overwhelming the geometric shape. The halo can be round or square diamonds, and when set beneath the center stone, it creates extra brilliance while maintaining the clean, modern aesthetic.
Focus on excellent cut quality to maximize brilliance, choose a length-to-width ratio between 1.00-1.05 for a perfect square, and ensure the corners are well-protected in the setting. VS1-VS2 clarity and G-H color grades offer excellent value while maintaining beauty.
Discover Our Princess Cut Collection
Explore our carefully curated selection of princess cut diamond engagement rings, each designed to showcase the geometric beauty and modern appeal that makes princess cuts so distinctive.
